Hi everybody, welcome to today’s blog, the final blog in the 4-series covering an in depth look at the hair types.

We have covered types 1, 2, 3 and now we are going get into the most common type among men and women of African descent, type 4-kinky/coily hair. Unlike the other types that I had to conduct research on, I think I may be an expert on type 4 hair!

Ps. I am a type 4 girl!

I have lived with this category of hair for 20+ years and I wouldn’t change a thing! Most of my friends also don type 4 crowns so I have a lot of experience on the topic.

After all, experience teaches wisdom (in most cases) right? Well, it should, but much like if I’d had type 1, 2 or 3 hair, it would have been and still is a learning process and I’m happy to share what I now know about what we call Kinky or Coily hair!

Type 4 hair has defined curls that are tightly coiled. The strands are very thin and are densely packed together. This often gives the illusion that all type 4 hair is coarse. However, it can be soft, spongy, thick or fine. The “kinky” nature is as a result of the strands being wiry. Because this type of hair often defies gravity; Afros and puffs, it is thought to be very strong but it is actually very fragile. Kinky/coily hair has fewer cuticle layers to protect it so it is the driest type and most prone to breakage.

My hair literally drinks moisturizers!

Although most type 4 hair can look the same if they are styled to appear that way, there are three sub-categories; 4A/K4a, 4B/K4b and 4C/K4c.

4A Hair

• Has defined wiry, tight curls/coils with short widths between each; the circumference of a crochet needle to the width of a pencil.
• A prominent S-shape can be seen whenever a curl stretched.
• Typically looks like a lot of Cs or Os packed together.
• Retains moisture the most of all type 4 hair.
• Not to be confused with 3C hair because the curls are very tighter.
• Shrinks about 50-60% of actual length when wet.
• More coily than kinky.

4B Hair

• Coils more than curls, looks like a Z or really soft and loose S’s in a zig-zag pattern.
• Sharply angled less defined curls.
• The coils are the width of a ball-point pen.
• Prone to shrinkage, up to 70%. Looks shorter than actual length without stretching.
• The sharp angles cause less natural oils to travel along the strands so the hair tends to be dry.
• Can be fine and wiry or rough and coarse textured.
• Fluffy appearance.
• Perfectly kinky.

4C Hair

• Tightly kinked Z-shaped coils, looks somewhat like 4B hair.
• Naturally, there is no curl definition unless products are added.
• Ranges from fine to thin, soft or coarse.

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From the slideshow, you can tell this is also my hair type.

• Shrinks over 70-75% of actual length.
• Densely packed hair.
• Soaks up conditioners well.
• Very delicate.
• Ends get tangled easily.
• Holds styles longer.
• Requires less frequent manipulation.
• Most manageable when wet and conditioned.
• When moisturized well, looks shiny.
• Driest of all type 4 hair.
• Strands lack elasticity but holds strong when pulled.

Now that we have identified the characteristics of each type 4 sub-category, let us also identify the best tips to care for them.

1. Moisturize hair daily.
2. Use sulphate-free, hydrating and moisturizing shampoos and conditioners.
3. Drink water regularly.
4. Trim hair ends regularly.
5. Detangle hair in sections.
6. Eat vegetables and protein-rich foods.
7. Sleep on a silk, satin pillow case.
8. Leave-in conditioners are a must.
9. Use moisturizing hair gels for styling.
10. Wide-tooth combs are also a must have.
    

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    I use a Conair wide-tooth comb.

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KinkyCurlyYaki also has some more general tips for all type 4 hair that you can check out.

Because 4A hair is curly and the coils are defined naturally, while 4C hair is simply kinky with no definition, they do require some specific treatments. I have listed some of these below.

• 4A/K4a hair requires delicate manipulation especially when wet because of tangling. Cleanse hair in sections.
• Focus on the scalp when washing and allow lather to wash away dirt from the strands.
• Deep condition weekly or bi-weekly to fortify hair.
• Leave-in conditioner should be used with every wash.
• All-natural oils should be used to reduce frizz and add luster to hair.
• Protective styles are suggested to reduce manipulation, hence reduce breakage of hair. See my recent post for suggestions.
• Use products which elongate your 4A curls.
• Twist outs can be used to define 4A curls.
• Follow up after wash with a cream-based moisturizer to hydrate hair.
• Always use a heat protectant when adding heat to 4A hair coils.
• Blow-dry on low heat or use a diffuser to dry.

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• 4B hair benefits from Pre-pooing or oiling with natural oils 30 minutes before shapooing. It helps to maintain the natural chemistry of the scalp.
• Low manipulation styles such as braids, roller sets and twist outs help to protect hair from breakage.

  

• Deep condition even more frequently than 4A.
• Wash and go’s look good on 4B hair but never leave hair soaking wet. Always dry at least 30% and moisturize fully.
• Use a protein conditioner to strengthen hair follicles when needed.
• Wash hair in sections to prevent tangling.
• Detangle with fingers.
• Stretch hair when damp to improve definition of coils.
• Get good sleep. Rest is important to every aspect of beauty and health. A satin pillowcase is again suggested.

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• As for 4C hair, avoid overstyling. Styling products are drying to hair and build up on your scalp.
• Deep condition weekly, again? I know I have it said it before in this blog but it is uber important. Kinky and coily men and women always have to contend with dryness so this step should not be overlooked.
• Detangle gently and slowly, devote time so you don’t have to rush.
• Shampoo every 2 weeks, skipping shampooing every other wash day won’t hurt. Use a cowash to replace. Askmen tells us why we should cowash.
• Find a good sealant for retaining moisture.
• Twist outs and braids last long and shout be used to reduce frequent manipulation.
• Use a cream-based humectant to protect 4C hair from the weather. Bustle compiled a list of some you may try.
• Only comb hair when it is properly moisturized.
• Try to not scratch scalp. Scratching and constantly touching your hair leads to breakage.

I thank you guys so much for reading and I will definitely see you in my next post.

You now know your type so wear that crown in style!